Camino Via Francigena - Lindsey Bell

Ever since we became Camino Ultra we have remained curious about the Caminos that exist and who finds themselves taking on a pilgrimage.

For those of you that don't know the Caminos are a network of pilgrimage routes that lead to the shrine of the apostle Saint James in Santiago de Compostela, Spain.

Medieval pilgrims simply started from their own front door and walked until they hit Spain. Over centuries, some routes became more established, and today they’re the ones we label as “the Caminos.”

Many have heard of Camino Francés as it is the most popular route and the one featured in the most articles and films. It is circa 800KM and passes through Pamplona, Burgos, León.

The first known Camino is the Camino Primitivo (Original Camino) where King Alfonso II of Asturias took this path from Oviedo to Santiago around 820 AD after the discovery of St. James’s tomb.

In addition you will find Caminos in Portugal, Norway and several in the UK. Several years ago Paula & Andrew Kelly helped establish the newly trailmarked Augustine Camino and we completed it as a Fastest Known Time.

When we first met the wonderful Lindsey Bell she was taking on the Portuguese Camino and fast forward to 2025 and Linzi (aka Linziwalks) was taking on a series of mountain based challenges throughout the year and culminating in a non-stop version of Camino Via Francigena (1500+ miles from Canterbury to Rome) - all raising incredible funds for MIND Charity.

We gratefully joined Lindsey on her FKT of the entire UK coastline in 2024 - a few things you need to know about Lindseys adventures:

• that rucksack is REALLY heavy!!!

• she does smile as much as you see on socials

• she is always uplifting others (so go and message her and be a part of Linzi's beautiful universe)

We absolutely loved following throughout her 66 day Camino adventures - there is no-one quite like Linzi for being passionate about her surroundings and for embracing all the things that we hold precious at Camino. When Linzi finished we asked if she would share some takeaways from Francigena and we hope that you also take more of a peek at the Camino network and plan your own x

Big Camino Love Lindsey x

LINZI:

Camino Via Francigena what a journey of discovery you are……. 1512 of miles of memories with the great outdoors 

If you've never heard of a Camino, which I hadn't back in 2019 and It wasn't until I asked my mum “What’s on your bucket list,  something you’d love to do when the pandemic ends?” Her reply was ‘  I would love to trek the Camino’ . At that moment I never would have guessed how significant and life changing that word  ‘Camino’ would become. 

The very word itself means ‘the way’ and whether you set out consciously seeking ‘your way’ or not, the Camino has a way of revealing the way that's right for you. 

Our modern, fast-paced lives often teach us to want more, to be more, to create more. Yet with every step on the Camino, I discover something radically different: that the deepest joy comes not from striving, but from simply being.! 

Being present with nature, with myself, with people, communities, with my feelings, with everything. It is like living at your fullest potential. I’ve fallen deeply in love with the pure feeling of presence that Camino journeys gift you in abundance. The way this Camino breathed love, joy, connection and direction with every step I shared with it is such a profoundly WHOLE feeling of BEING. I met all the pain I've ever felt in my life on my terms. I hadn't known this day, Day 52 needed to arrive. I hadn't fully understood why I carried such an undeniable drive to keep pushing, striving and challenging myself again and again gaining strength and weakness in equal measure. 

But now I see.

The pain I felt on trail and all those before.This pain I chose to meet head on, was mine. It was born from my will, my path, my strength. And it collided powerfully and unexpectedly with the pain I never chose, the pain I had no control over. On this Camino the powerless pain of my past met the empowered pain of my present and became ONE! 

In those moments of realisation, held by nature, it felt as if the wisdom of the beginning of time was flowing through my veins, while the infinity of all time expanded outward from every part of my being. I always knew this energy of infinite presence existed and with this  Camnio,, I lived it.

The Camino Via Francigena is my fourth Camino, and it will not be my last. My hope is that my walk inspires you to find your own Way too.

And what a Way it has been. A trek of 1,512 miles across five countries each step shaped not only by my inner journey, but also by the landscapes, architecture, cultures, communities and  climates (I can confirm tarmac melts at 35 celsius because my size boot is now imprinted on an old road in France.. I've quite literally become part of history!!) 

The Via Francigena holds you in its arms of history, inviting you to explore all of its wonder. Starting in Canterbury, U.K at Canterbury Cathedral leading along farmers fields to  the industrial energy of Dover. Learning how to walk was mastered with the help of a  Ferry ;-) This and the bus that took me from the Port to Calais centre was the only form of transport other than my feet for the entirety of this incredible trek. 

From Calais France gently nurtured me with its flat farmland fields of vast soft earthy colours into my daily rhythm of averaging 23 miles a day over 66 days, 3 hours and 15 minutes. 

The French canals flow seamlessly as did I along them with a stream of smiling cyclists, trekkers,dog walkers,  couples of all ages. I did smile a lot when an older couple consumed with young love took to the bushes to fondle the fruit, only it wasn't on the bushes! He he 

France has a very warm welcoming trusting energy that I absolutely loved! 

3 days before reaching the France , Switzerland border the landscape begins to change with cascading mountains beginning to rise with lush green diverse  forestry. The air felt cooler with each rise and the sound of flowing water became constant even if I could not see it I could hear it… I love the sound of streams, waterfalls and rivers. Its natural energy in motion that flows and passes nurturing nature like blood in veins. 

There is something about standing at the peak of a mountain when your gaze can drift for miles into your future and reflect upon your past. They compress time into something tangible, the path trekked being the past, the horizon ahead the future, and your breath, heartbeat, and footsteps rooted firmly  in the present. The vastness of seeing our natural world from its peaks grounds a deep sense of belonging that I've yet to feel anywhere else. 

Switzerland made me feel calm, at peace, and vibrantly alive all at once. Time seemed to soften there, nothing was hurried, nothing strained. Everything around me carried a quiet sense of purpose and presence, as though it simply knew its place in the world. There was no need for loudness, no demand for attention or proof of worth. Even the architecture reflected this truth ,clean, uncluttered lines that felt steady and assured, echoing the stillness of the mountains themselves. 

Lake Geneva drew me into its mirrored waters, where mountains danced in the refections of the lake.  Communities from every culture gathered along the shore. I had only ever felt this kind of human togetherness at festivals, yet here it unfolded with ease and abundance. Babies being cuddled, teenagers giggled in clusters, parents battling their barbecue smoke with smiles, friends tapped out rhythms, and lovers splashing playfully in the waters. It was a tapestry of humanity in its purest form, people from all walks of life, simply loving life together under the warmth of the sun. I stood  for fifteen minutes, smiling, letting their joy wash over me, content to stand still and witness the happiness of humanity around me. 

Snow sits on Swiss mountains as did my bum when I tried to ski down a small section. I couldn't resist sharing some time with the snow.. There's something magical about how its intricate particles cuddle together to create blankets of pure beauty frozen in form!! Reaching the Great St Bernard Pass was a phenomenal feeling surrounded by gigantic unapologetic mountains!Its magnificent! So magnificent that I trekked into Italy without realising until a group  of smiling focused faces said ‘Ciao’!! 

Italy's  villages and towns are blended  into its landscapes complementing nature's shapes, colors and energy. The Italian streets flow with history and creative intention. Every detail reflects a deep care and compassion, a reverence for beauty that pulses through the stone and structure. These buildings, these streets, weren’t just built; they were crafted. Designed with soul, they radiate a timeless essence no modern architecture can replicate. There is a living poetry here  etched in arches, whispered in courtyards, sung through cobbled lanes. 

Rome and Vatican City explode with architectural awe!! My creative spirit was in a state of  constant curiosity and admiration and yet my human heart felt in conflict knowing the cruelty and sacrifice that took place to achieve and amongst it. 

I adored Italy so much I am returning to a place I named the ‘unicorn’  to sit and write the beginnings of a book that is now screaming to play on to pages to  dance into people's ideas of freedom, hope and connection. 

After 67 days trekking from Canterbury  to Rome, nature has taught me. Nature is the one place where truth still lives. Not curated. Not performative. Not bought or sold. Just the truth.

The modern world teaches us to rush, to compare, to chase worth. But nature?

It invites. It reflects. It holds us exactly as we  are.

We can’t manufacture truth. We can’t download peace. But we can return to it. And when we do…We stop performing. We start remembering. We come home to ourselves.

Let nature in. Let it refuel you, reshape you, remind you. Let it rewild the freedom you were born with. You don’t need to find yourself. You only need to return.

CAMINO:

If you have been inspired by Lindsey then follow her on socials

You can still donate to her MIND Charity

If you wish to learn more about the various routes and plan one of you own try this Camino Ways site

Some extra notes from Lindsey because like us she is beautifully Camino obsessed:

So, how many are there “in the world”?

• 50–70 Caminos proper (all leading to Santiago).

• 200+ global pilgrimage routes if you include the cousins and inspired trails.

  
  

• The Camino is like the Milky Way of walking trails: some bright, well-travelled stars; others faint, half-forgotten, waiting for a wanderer’s boots.  

• When walking a Camino there are what is known as 'Albergues' these are places that offer you a nights rest on your Camino journey.

  
  

• The charge is often a contribution of 10 or so euros. These are places where you feel wrapped in human warmth and kindness especially when on the days where your emotions may of been on their own journey and human affection is last thing you think you need but is EVERYTHING you need at that moment in time. To stay, you have to present  your Camino Passport (I love that you've chosen a pic of my battered and beloved VF passport) you get a  bed and often a meal is given to you to. I've met so many kindred spirits at each Albergue. 

  
  

• This group of souls volunteer their time and love for anyone who knocks on their door. The man in the red top spoke no English and I no Italian and yet we seemed to completely understand each other. He made the most incredible 3 course Italian dinner and fresh bread for the morning after. Watching his passion, his  love of every ingredient chosen, blended and dish created. People coming and going, him chatting to each of them, making them feel welcomed, loved , at home and welcome as he cooked up a meals to bring us altogether as one. 

  
  

• His natural kindness was like plugging into the pureness of human kindness. I felt warm and safe around him.. Some people radiate human goodness and he was one of them x